Homer Alaska - Business

This year commemorates the silver anniversary of the birth of The Better Sweater, the iconic clothing boutique on the Spit stuffed with so many colorful knitted South American and Asian sweaters, hats, gloves and purses it's like a yarn bomb exploded.

It is at the end of this 25th year that owner and operator Kathleen Foltz has chosen to say her goodbyes — to an era, a lifetime's creation, a career, a passion, a joy, a burden, a lifestyle.

You wouldn't point to 64-year-old Foltz in a crowd and think "fashionista." She's tall and thin, wears baggy denim jeans and oversized gray wool sweaters — sometimes two or three layered atop one another. But perhaps, if you asked nicely, she would show you her stockpiled "Vogue" magazines or her meticulous notes on previous years' popular sweater styles. In Foltz's opinion, however, it's her vigilant eyes and ears that deserve the credit for nurturing her business from its meager beginnings to its current flourishing state.

"Look at me. You would never know I could do this job. And you wouldn't believe the things I've tried to sell," she said. "I just watch what sells and listen to what each person says when they try stuff on, then take it from there."

Foltz started planning her exit about 10 years ago. She promised herself she would retire once her mortgage was paid off. She accomplished that in August of 2009.

"It's not that I'm sick of the business," she said. "It's more physical than anything, I'm getting old. Not to mention I've missed a real summer for the past 25 years."

It was in the fall of 1984, at the age of 35, that Foltz sold her first 300 sweaters. She had been teaching English in Peru, where she met her future business partner Hans Reichert. They decided to travel around South America together. The money ran out in Bolivia, so the duo bought 300 sweaters and brought them back to the United States. They sold them at the University of Colorado at Boulder, the University of South Dakota and the University of Iowa. Their inventory sold rapidly; they couldn't have kept sweaters stocked if they were bolted down. The two had found their market and their calling.

Photo by Jessica Knox Kathleen Foltz, creator, owner and operator of The Better Sweater for the past 25 years, poses with the shop's new owners Indira Mukambetoba and Toby Wheeler, along with Pauline Renner, who has been with the shop for 15 years.

In the summer of 1985, Reichert suggested they relocate their business to Alaska.

"Sweaters and cold — it was natural, but I grew up in Wisconsin in the cold. I did not want to go to Alaska," Foltz said.

For two summers Foltz and Reichert traveled around Alaska selling sweaters they bought in South America and Asia during their winters.

They sold in Fairbanks, Kodiak, fairs, in the parking lots of IGAs, in Seward during the Fourth of July and worked the parking lot of the Salty Dawg.

In 1986, The Better Sweater set up shop where Coal Point is now. The rent was $5 a day. In 1990 Coal Point was built and The Better Sweater was moved to its present location.

For four years there was nothing on the harbor side of the Spit except The Better Sweater and The Salty Dawg.

"For 25 years business got better and better," Foltz said. "I can't emphasize enough how instrumental Hans was in the creation of The Better Sweater. He thought of the name, took the risks, made the initial contacts. I can't denigrate anything he did."

Reichert had the initial vision, but it was Foltz that kept the business running after he left in 2000.

"He broke under the stress," she said. "But there were debts to be paid and no question of closing. It took a couple of years to find my feet; there was a big hole there."

In the following years Foltz found her routine. In January, February, March and April she is in Asia and South America buying inventory, making new contacts, shipping and inspecting clothing. May through August is spent in Homer selling product, and the remaining four months of her year is spent in Colorado, her home of choice, preparing for the season to come.

The job has consisted of a lot of repetitive work over the years, but the challenge for Foltz lies in finding the latest style, something new and different.

"Too much of the same is what puts you out of business. If you have to work, it's not a bad job," she said.

At the beginning of the 2010 season The Better Sweater went on the market. Many people approached Foltz with offers, but it wasn't until she met Indira Mukambetoba that Foltz found the woman to whom she wanted to turn over her business.

Mukambetoba, 35, has been working in the Kyrgyz clothing and textile industry since she was 16. For the past three years she has been selling Kyrgyz Nomad Handicrafts — scarves, hats, carpets, mostly made of felted sheep's wool— on consignment at the Yurt Village and Samarkand. Mukambetoba approached Foltz in June about selling her products on consignment at The Better Sweater. When she discovered Foltz was looking to sell her business, Mukambetoba showed great interest.

"I realized the things Indira wanted to sell would flourish here. This is the best spot for them and what she will bring via her Kyrgyzstan background will be invaluable for business," Foltz said.

As The Better Sweater changes hands, the merchandise will change very little, but there will be the addition of new Kyrgyz products.

"I am learning a lot," Mukambetoba said. "Every day my eyes get bigger and bigger. I am thankful and appreciative of Kathleen's patience. I hope to make a better Better Sweater."

"The key to taking over the business is the willingness of Kathleen to help us through the transition process," Toby Wheeler, Mukambetoba's husband and business partner, said. "This next buying trip will be essential. It's where the rubber meets the road."

Foltz is saying goodbye to her brain child in high spirits and a bit of sadness.

"The shock of leaving started to set in when Indira gave me her e-mail and it was Indira@bettersweater," Foltz said. "I know they are going to be wonderful, I consider myself so fortunate to have these people taking over. It's taken so long to get the business to this point, it (would have been) crazy to just throw it away. I'm glad to have found someone that wants to nourish and condition this space.

"But wow … it's really over."

Jessica Knox is a freelance writer who lives in Homer.