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Story last updated at 9:04 AM on Friday, November 20, 2009

Holiday menu planning begins now





 

Wasn't it just summertime and the Other Fisherman and I were sitting on the party deck sipping white wine and basking in the evening sunshine? Now we have snow and ice fog hangs in the air. Tradeoffs.

The first transition into the holiday eating frenzy is the arrival of the boxes of fresh king crab we anticipate as soon as we consume those last tasty bites from the prior year. We have been enjoying fresh crab with butter and lemon, crab cakes and hot crab artichoke dip all consumed while drinking champagne. I doubt if there is anything better than this delicacy from the icy Bering Sea paired with a perfect flute of bubbly.

It's also time to think about your favorite Thanksgiving menu. This meal is a celebration of traditional flavors and a time to enjoy the company of family and friends around the table.

Last year we started a new Thanksgiving tradition - beignets for breakfast. We decided it would be a tradition because they require mixing up the night before, easy to do, are made fresh and hot in the morning and are so yummy. The taste of them takes me back to a vacation in New Orleans where I walked over to Cafe Du Monde each morning, sat down in the outdoor cafe and ordered a plate of fresh, hot beignets sprinkled with a mountain of powdered sugar and a cafe au lait. A perfect way to begin a day of touring in this historic, fun city.

My family knows what they want and expect for their Thanksgiving meal and one thing they don't want is change. I better not even think about making a new dish or replacing one of the traditional dishes we enjoy.

If I could change one item myself in this repertoire of Thanksgiving delights, I would enjoy cooking this upscale rendition of that old American traditional side dish: the green bean casserole. I am a food snob and always on the lookout for a gourmet version of a classic such as this, even though the family doesn't like me to mess with tradition. This version created by the no-nonsense cooking magazine, Cooks Illustrated, just may be it.

Classic Green Bean Casserole

Courtesy of Cook's Illustrated - Serves 10 to 12

The components of the casserole can be prepared ahead of time. Store the bread-crumb topping in an airtight container in the refrigerator and combine with the onions just before cooking. Combine the beans and cooled sauce in a baking dish, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. To serve, remove the plastic wrap and heat the casserole in a 425-degree oven for 10 minutes, then add the topping and bake as directed. This recipe can be halved and baked in a 2-quart (or 8-inch-square) baking dish. If making a half batch, reduce the cooking time of the sauce to about 6 minutes (1 3/4 cups) and the baking time to 10 minutes.

Beans and Sauce

Table salt

2 pounds green beans, ends trimmed, and halved

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound white button mushrooms, stems trimmed, wiped clean, and broken into 1/2-inch pieces

3 medium cloves garlic, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1 tablespoon)

Ground black pepper

3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth

Topping

4 slices white sandwich bread, each slice torn into quarters

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1/4 teaspoon table salt

1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

3 cups canned fried onions (about 6 ounces)

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

For the topping: Pulse bread, butter, salt and pepper in food processor until mixture resembles coarse crumbs, about 10 one-second pulses. Transfer to large bowl and toss with onions; set aside.

For the beans and sauce: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Fill large bowl with ice water. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large Dutch oven. Add 2 tablespoons salt and beans. Cook beans until bright green and crisp-tender, about 6 minutes. Drain beans in colander and plunge immediately into ice water to stop cooking. Spread beans on paper-towel-lined baking sheet to drain.

Add butter to now-empty Dutch oven and melt over medium-high heat until foaming subsides. Add mushrooms, garlic, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper; cook until mushrooms release moisture and liquid evaporates, about 6 minutes. Add flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Stir in broth and bring to simmer, stirring constantly. Add cream, reduce heat to medium, and simmer until sauce is thickened and reduced to 3 1/2 cups, about 12 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Add green beans to sauce and stir until evenly coated. Arrange in even layer in 3-quart (or 13 by 9-inch) baking dish.

Sprinkle with topping and bake until top is golden brown and sauce is bubbling around edges, about 15 minutes. Serve immediately.

Blue Cheese Crab Dip

Makes about 3 cups

As much as I don't like to have appetizers take over everyone's anticipatory appetite, the Other Fisherman insists we have them. I can't help myself, I just have to share something made with crab.

3 ounces blue cheese, crumbled; about three-fourths cup

2 green onions, finely chopped

1 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh parsley, finely chopped

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1/2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup low fat mayonnaise

1/2 cup part-skim ricotta cheese

1 teaspoon country-style Dijon mustard

1 1/2 cup shelled cooked Alaska crab meat

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

4 dashes hot sauce, (Tabasco)

Freshly ground black pepper

12 slices bread, preferably whole grain

Combine all ingredients except the bread slices in a medium bowl and mix thoroughly.

Divide mixture among the 12 slices of bread.

Toast bread in oven or toaster oven until mixture is hot and bubbly and bread is lightly toasted on the bottom.

Alternately, heat dip in 325 degree oven until bubbly, about 15 minutes, and serve with carrot and celery sticks and crackers.

Serve immediately and prepare to be complimented.

Until next time, Happy Thanksgiving. I am so thankful for my readers and wish you all a blessed and tasty holiday.

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