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Far
from the pristine ocean shores of Homer, Alaska a very different kind of
fishery exists. On the murky waters of the Great Salt Lake in Utah, Kent
Sorensen is a spotter pilot in the brine shrimp egg fishing industry. Once an
open sea spotter pilot in Alaska's commercial salmon fishery, Sorensen has
found a fishery in which the practice of "spotting" (finding fish and directing
boats from the air) is still legal. But the desolate landscape of this inland
industry is a stark contrast to the wholesome fishing we're used to here at the
edge of the Kachemak Bay. Unconventional harvest tactics mix with extreme
pollution to create a phantasmagoric fishery amidst the red rocks of Utah.
The
Great Salt Lake is around forty miles wide and eighty miles long, covering more
acreage than the state of Delaware, but it can support very little life. Although
the lake also harbors bacteria and insects, its most complex inhabitants are brine
shrimp of the particular species Artemia franciscana. These are the object of Sorensen's fishery. It's not
the adult shrimp that are collected but their eggs, or cysts. The annual
fishery opens on the first of October and lasts until the cyst count drops
below 22 eggs per liter of water, or until January thirty-first. Every year, Sorensen
leaves his home for three months to "fish" these tiny eggs. So how exactly does
one catch an egg?
From
the cozy cockpit of his PA-12, Sorensen scours the lake for any sign of cyst.
The eggs, when they are ready for harvest, float to the top of the briny like.
"You can see different patches of colored water," says Sorensen. "The good eggs
kind of look like pollen in a mud puddle." Once the floating cysts are located
Sorensen communicates their GPS coordinates to the boats below. The boats
cruise across the vast lake. Their bows plow through the dark polluted water as
spray coats the sides of the boat with brine. When they reach their destination
they deploy large booms, like those used during oil spills. The booms are
dragged along the surface and collect the egg into what the fishermen refer to
as a "patty." They squeeze the boom smaller and smaller, condensing the egg.
Then the eggs are sucked out of the boom with a hydraulic pump and put into
cloth bags so the water can drain.
The
boats bring the egg back to shore in what looks like bags of red clay. Sometimes, says Sorensen, the actual
shrimp get in the bags and they turn from red clay into a stinky brown mush
that quickly begins to decompose. "Then," he says, "it gets pretty gross." The decaying
bags are tossed away and the bags of cysts are delivered to wash plants on the
docks, where some of the mud is hosed off . The remaining product is put in
refrigerator storage where it is kept until it is ready to be processed. Then
the eggs are dried, canned and sold.
Who
buys dried brine shrimp eggs? They aren't exactly an item seen on the shelves
of local grocery stores. Brine shrimp have been used as fish feed since 1950,
when the first harvest of Artemia began
on the Great Salt Lake. The fishery began with the harvest of adult shrimp, but
it was soon found that the cysts could be processed and preserved for a more
efficient food source. Sorensen's company ships the processed eggs to shrimp
farms for use as aquaculture starter food. Despite being dried, the young brine
shrimp "spring back to life" when they are placed in water. "They're like the
sea monkeys we used to have as kids," said Sorensen. "In fact, that's exactly
what they are."
With
this narrow consumer base and the distinctive properties of the Great Salt Lake,
the brine shrimp egg fishery seems pretty unique. No other environment is as
mineral-rich or as briny as the lake. Several other species of Artemia are found throughout the world but Artemia
franciscana is unique to the Great Salt
Lake. There are a few similar fisheries in Russia, but Utah's lake produces one
half of the world's brine shrimp egg supply. Although there isn't too much
competition in the market, there are sometimes struggles on the lake itself for
egg. "There are a couple other companies, and about four other pilots," says
Sorensen, "But we all kind of know each other and get along pretty well."
This
fishery is a big change from the kind of spotting Sorensen used to do on the
open ocean, before fish spotting was outlawed in Alaskan fishing industries
during the early 1990's. Although flying around the lake is much safer, the
fast evaporation capacity of the lake can sometimes cause heavy snowstorms.
This tendency, called the Lake Effect, can often hinder the pilots, holing them
up until the murky water settles. Sorensen misses Alaskan fish spotting across
the clear blue sea. "I prefer flying around the ocean looking for real fish,"
he says, "The brine shrimp fishery isn't as satisfying. It doesn't have as
living of an economy."
Utah
itself is not as "living" a place as Alaska, and during his time away from home
Sorensen struggles with this difference. He paints a gruesome picture of the
pollution the industry faces. MagCorp, the third largest magnesium producer in
the world, is located directly across the lake from Sorensen's trailer. The
company is ranked number one on the EPA's toxic release inventory. The plant
produces thousands of gallons of solid and liquid waste per day and has
recently been involved in a lawsuit centered on its improper disposal
techniques. Much of the waste is tossed in an unlined four hundred acre pond
adjacent to the Great Salt Lake. Because of this, many of the toxins can leach
into the lake. But the worst aspect of the plant is its constant emission of thick
smoke heavy with chlorine gas. "I've had to fly through it before," Sorensen
attested. "You can smell it in the air, and it makes your eyes water and your
nose burn."
The lake itself is
extremely toxic. Besides the pollutants that seep into the lake from the
ground, it is full of anaerobic bacteria. This type of bacteria thrives in the
lake's low oxygen levels and contributes to its incredible stench. Many
neighboring sewage plants dump their processing effluent into the lake as well,
making its waters a sinister harbor for disease and decay. "This one guy,"
tells Sorensen, "Got his boat stuck on a tide bar and decided he could just
push it off. So he wouldn't fill up his boots, he took them off. I think he
left on his socks for protection, but he pushed the boat so hard he cut up the
bottoms of his feet. The cuts got infected from the lake water, and they almost
had to cut the guy's legs off." And if that's not enough, during the fishing season
hundreds of dead birds litter the lake's briny surface. "Thousands of Western
Grebes fly over the lake, and many of them get infected with botulism. They
die, and float around in the lake until the gulls come and literally peck their
hearts out." The Great Salt Lake's water level is steadily receding. It has experienced
a foot and a half drop this year alone. The current water level is the lowest
it's been in over forty years. And as the water level drops the salinity and
mineral levels spike, making an increasingly hostile environment for brine
shrimp and fishermen alike.
As disturbing as these
trends are, the fishermen do their best to maintain a good attitude throughout
the season. Keeping spirits light, some of the more musical fishermen recently formed
a band called "The Heartless Grebes." The men residing on the shores of the
lake work together to buoy each other up during long days of fishing. These
fearless fishermen brave the desolation and pollution of the Great Salt Lake
for four months to make their year's salary. For many it's tough being away
from the splendor and purity of home, but they stoically suffer through it.
Sorensen sums it up in saying, "I just miss the real ocean fish, the clean
water, and the sea life."
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