Salad Nicoise offers satisfying combinations of textures and flavors
Published 5:30 am Wednesday, April 22, 2026
Alaska just lost a great man and noble citizen. A scholar and philosopher who made a lasting impression everywhere he went. Respected by his colleagues, he was a fearsome debater and a charismatic conversationalist, always ready with more examples, more sources, more proof. He loved to meander through hypotheticals and dive into the outer realms of human nature and the possibilities of our existence through endless discussions and research. He was an articulate, intellectual man who would perform dissertations to his enthralled audience of teenage pupils in the sunshine while the bees hummed around our bare toes in the clover.
He and his impressive partner opened their home to my sister and her two babies in her time of need. He wrapped his arms around her as she cried and told her that her pain was sand and her tears were the salt water that would transform her agony into pearls. He believed in her, in us, and sang our praises to everyone who could hear him. He accompanied me on a walk one day when I was heavily pregnant. He held my hand to keep me steady as I wobbled down the trail and he made grand predictions for the life I was about to give to the world. He told me that I was capable and brilliant and any child of mine was a lucky one indeed. He adored my sister’s children, especially my darling niece, and his eyes would twinkle when she held her arms out for him to lift her up.
He was the epitome of a gourmand. He had a deep appreciation for the artistry of fine cuisine and wines and would accept my offerings of treats and snacks with gracious glee. He would tell me about favorite restaurants and dishes he enjoyed on his travels and would enjoy brainstorming with me for future recipes and pie-in-the-sky plans for my own restaurant someday. He was like another father for my sister and I, a lighthouse in the terrible storm of our youth, and we owe so much to his confident assurance that we were destined for great things in this life.
I don’t know if he ever visited Nice, but I do know he would have enjoyed the satisfying combinations of textures and flavors in the salad Nicoise that originated there. There are endless variations of this dish, but standard ingredients include green beans, boiled eggs, potatoes, olives, tomatoes, and high-quality canned fish like tuna or sardines, all on a bed of greens and dressed with a sauce of lemon and oil with herbs, capers, mustard, and anchovies. This salad is a hearty meal on its own but is an excellent option for the center of the table to share as an appetizer with crusty bread and a bottle of buttery chardonnay.
Elstun, I am forever grateful for your love and wisdom. Rest in peace.
Ingredients for one lunch entrée portion:
4 oz green beans
2 boiled eggs
3-4 new potatoes
A small handful of cherry tomatoes
¼ of a cucumber, sliced
1/3 cup olives or pickled onions (something salty in brine)
1 can high-quality tuna
About 1 cup dark salad greens
High-quality, robust olive oil
Salt and black pepper
For the dressing-
3 anchovy fillets in oil
¼ cup olive oil
The juice of 1 lemon
2 tbsp dijon mustard
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tbsp capers
2 tsp minced fresh parsley
Directions:
Make the dressing by combining all ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth.
Boil the eggs to your preferred doneness, peel and cut in half, and set aside.
Blanch the green beans in boiling water and shock in an ice bath. Drain and season with a little oil and salt and pepper.
Boil your whole new potatoes until fork tender, shock in an ice bath to stop the cooking, cut into small bites (halved or quartered depending on the size), season with oil and salt and pepper.
Assemble the salad by drizzling a little dressing on the bare plate before laying the greens down to cover.
Artfully arrange all the toppings and top with some more dressing – you might not need all of it.
Serve with great conversation.
